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In 2001, I moved to Bolivia to become a Peace Corps volunteer and fell deeply in love with the country. I wanted to visit friends and family, but, like any intrepid freelancer, I also hoped to do some reporting. With help from the hostel desk clerk, I called naval headquarters. I rolled up to the security gate, told them I was a journalist, and explained that I had an appointment. ” he asked, handing me a brochure with a picture of a small cruise ship. “Our attention is personalized so that you will feel quality and comfort similar to what you would feel in your own home, allowing you to enjoy your stay and absorb the energies of the sacred-mystic Lake Titicaca,” it read. When did the navy start using its ships for tourist cruises? I would return to La Paz on March 23 for the big “Day of the Sea” celebration, when the country reflects on the terrible loss of its coast and proclaims vengeance on Chile. Ricardo ordered tall beers and sweet and sour chicken (for the both of us) as I tried to put some professional boundaries on an evening that seemed suddenly out of my control. They never forgot the injustice, and diplomatic relations between the two nations have remained frosty ever since. Bolivia has been demanding that Chile return its coastline for decades. That rat’s nest of pen marks represents Bolivia’s 46-kilometer-long “coastline,” which boasts a barely populated outpost called Puerto Busch. But when he offered to come up to my room, I declined. if only greedy Chile would give Bolivia back its goddamn sea.

Although Bolivia has been landlocked since it lost its coastline to Chile more than 130 years ago, the country still maintains a navy. Ricardo would get me an interview with the Comandante General, the head of the navy. “Let me tell you about my husband.” “I am so interested in Bolivia’s navy.” “How nice that we can have dinner as professionals.” “Let me tell you more about my husband.” “Please tell me about your wife.” These tactics failed miserably. “I am married and you are married, so there’s nothing between us except friendship,” I said. “I can’t believe that you think we came here for anything more. And earlier this year, the country brought its grievances to the Hague. By that logic, Bismarck, North Dakota, is a coastal city too. I did return to La Paz for Day of the Sea, but I couldn’t bring myself to phone Ricardo. *** There’s no shortage of stories on the Bolivian navy.

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